ode to a deviled egg

I effing love deviled eggs. I've eaten a lot of hors d'oeuvres (more than I'd care to admit) attending parties for work, and let me tell you, it's always a welcome sight when I see a tray of these babies coming my way. They're the perfect one-bite food—way less cumbersome than mini burgers, or soup shooters, or anything that requires a plate, napkin, and spoon while you're also juggling a drink.

According to the Southern Foodways Alliance, the term "deviled" dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries, meaning something prepared with spicy seasonings like cayenne and mustard. Of course, over time this definition evolved and expanded. The modern-day deviled egg is practically a blank canvas. In this case, I laced the filling with curry powder, but you could use almost anything, really: fresh chopped herbs (tarragon is especially heavenly), crab meat, hot sauce, pesto, anchovies, green onions, or as they do in the South, a healthy dose of sweet relish. At fancy parties, I've had dainty deviled quail eggs topped with caviar—pretty swanky. But at their heart, deviled eggs are a simple, homey dish.

I think Margaret McArthur Rovai says it best:

Deviled Eggs

He's diabolical at:
Your Selma reunion
A picnic from the battered cooler
A Chicago dive

Mephisto jeers
At leftover sashimi.
His dimpled platter’s naked
before the second bottle's broached

A vet and his great-grandson
Snarfed sixteen
at the Scotch and Similac hour
Twelve teeth between them.

A Birmingham bride
soils her satin under the magnolias
even the vegans
absolve her

The fluttering
when he crashed a baby shower
morphed into darling devilled eggs
bonneted with pink nasturtiums

But they were never so Southern:
on the vegetable platter
at the Raleigh Market

Mac and cheese, okra and
Deviled Eggs --
His most subversive self.
So much sexier than spinach!

—Margaret McArthur Rovai


Curried deviled eggs
(serves 6 people)

6 eggs
1 tsp. dijon mustard
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 1/2 tsp. curry powder
Salt and pepper
Sliced green onions

Fill up a large saucepan halfway with water and add the eggs, so that they are fully underwater. Bring the water to a boil. Cover the pan and remove from heat. Let the eggs sit covered for at least 12 minutes, but no more than 20 minutes. Drain the hot water from pan and run cold water over the eggs. Fill the pan with cold water and let the eggs sit until they come to room temperature before peeling.

Carefully slice the eggs lengthwise in half. Release the yolks into a small bowl by pressing gently on the opposite side of the egg white. Use a fork to mash the yolks, then add the mayo, mustard, curry powder, and salt and pepper. When combined, spoon the mixture into each egg white half (or pour the filling into a resealable sandwich bag, then snip one corner off and use it as a piping bag). Top each egg with a few sliced green onions. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve.

link-o-rama

Happy Friday, everyone.

10 summer party hors d'oeuvres from Bon Appetit [via Bon Ap]

Italian sodas in cocktails? Count me in. [via the WSJ]

A forum from Serious Eats on things you "wouldn't serve guests." Some responses: organ meats, hoagies, pork chops, Cool Whip, or any kind of "Helper." [via Serious Eats]

More on "gourmet" ice and the picky people who love it, this time from the Times. This story is kind of ridiculous. If anyone showed up at our place bearing their own ice, I'd kick them out. [via the NYT]

Dinner parties: to theme or not to theme? [via the Kitchn]
This is a pretty innocuous story, but it got me thinking. Unless you're going with a theme purely for kitsch value (foods of the 1950's, white trash, Prohibition, etc.), I kind of hate the idea of themed dinners. They make me think of grade-school birthday parties where the paper napkins match the paper cups and the cake and the streamers and the balloons. Okay for six-year-olds, but scary for adults. Sandra Lee excluded. If you want to select a soundtrack or tablecloth based on what you're serving, that's fine, but it's not really my thing.

I will say that I tend to focus on a more general food-related theme (tacos, New England clam bake) or type of cuisine (Italian, Greek) when I'm planning a menu. On one hand, it feels restrictive and not that creative—I'm jealous of cooks who serve seemingly incongruous dishes that pair so well together it makes you wonder why you've never eaten them side-by-side before. Eventually I will get there. But for now, having a general theme helps me quickly pull together several dishes that complement each other. And that's what I always look for in a meal, whether I'm eating in a restaurant or cooking at home.

What are your thoughts on this? Theme or no?

¡taco viva!

Mmm...tacos.

Mindi and Tom came over last Friday evening for a belated birthday dinner for Tom. Because this was a weeknight dinner I wanted to do something fairly quick to put together and also, as is the theme these sweltering late summer days, without the oven. (I promise that in the fall and winter we'll be roasting, braising, and turning on the stove for no reason other than warmth.)

Burgers on the grill pan would have been delicious and easy, but then I thought about our last trip to the Latin food vendors at the Red Hook soccer fields and the spicy meat-filled tacos Dan and Tom and our friend E relished, salsa and meat juices sauce dripping down their arms. So I figured I could something similar (although less messy) with a shredded rotisserie chicken. For a weekend dinner party, I might have tried Mark Bittman's shredded chicken recipe, but it was a Friday, and I wanted to use those precious rushed hours of after-work food shopping and cooking to make a few interesting condiments and toppings to go with the tacos. Because, really, isn't that the best part of eating tacos? Paired with some gooey queso fresco and black beans, this was a filling and fun meal.

Friday night taco dinner
Queso fundido with chips
Shredded chicken tacos
with guacamole,
tomato, radish, and corn salad,
and pickled red onions
Black beans
Three-layer ice cream cake

Queso Fundido
Call me a snob, but queso dip always struck me as gross sports bar food. But I wanted something for everyone to snack on, pre-tacos, other than salsa or guacamole (which we'd be eating on the tacos later). And if Rick Bayless, the gringo's authority on all things related to Mexican food, says queso is good, I must believe him. Instead of scary melted Velveeta, his recipe (from Food & Wine) is a blend of melted Monterey Jack, sauteed onions and tomatoes, and the secret ingredient: a splash of tequila. Booze aside, Dan said that this dip could use a little more "zazz" and I agree. Next time, I'd add mix in a sharper cheese like white cheddar and some queso fresco for more saltiness.
(Serves 4 to 6 people)


1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium tomatoes—cored, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 jalapeños, seeded and minced
1 small onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
salt
3 tablespoons tequila
1/2 pound (3 cups) Monterey Jack cheese, shredded
1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
Corn chips

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the tomatoes, onion, jalapeños, and a large pinch of salt. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Pour in the tequila (stand back, just in case!) and cook, stirring frequently, until the skillet looks nearly dry, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Add the cheese and cook, stirring constantly, until melted, about 30 seconds. Quickly transfer the queso fundido to a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the cilantro and serve immediately, with chips.


Quick pickled red onions
I love pickled things and wanted to serve something that would add a little brightness and acidity to the shredded chicken. I thought about pickled jalapeños, or some sort of vinegar-based slaw, but then I remembered a batch of pickled onions I made a long time ago for some steak tacos and how perfect they were as a condiment. I couldn't find the recipe I used, but I remembered that Molly, of Orangette, is also a pickle-lover (is it way obvious that I have a huge girl crush?) and decided to try her version instead.


Sometimes I do a very, very, very quick onion pickle before adding them to a salad or dressing, by simply letting them soak in vinegar for a few minutes. A little vinegar heightens the flavor of the onions while taking away their bad breath-causing edge. Her method for quick pickling is slightly more involved than my v.v.v. quick pickle, but the extra seasonings make a big difference when you're serving the onions as a condiment. The recipe makes a lot of onions, but we've been happily eating the leftovers with salads and grilled meat.
(Makes about 1 quart)

2 cups apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
2 medium red onions, about 1 1/4 pound

Combine the first six ingredients in saucepan, and place over medium heat. While the brine heats, peel and trim the onions. Cut them in half, then slice each half into half-moons, about 1/4 inch thick. When you've finished slicing the onions, check the brine. It should be boiling at this point. If it isn't, reduce the heat to high. When you've got a rolling boil, add the onion slices, and stir to combine. Immediately remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let stand for 25 minutes.

Transfer the onions and brine to a large bowl, and set aside to cool in the refrigerator. When the onions are cooled, serve with salads, fish, meat, cheese, or with other pickled veggies. Put leftover onions (and the brine) in jars with tight-fitting lids, and store in the refrigerator.


Corn, radish, and tomato salad
This chopped salad can be eaten on its own, as a side dish, or used as a salsa for tacos or grilled fish or meat. Feel free to play around with the ingredients and add different elements.


2 ears corn
1 large tomato (yellow or red), roughly chopped
1 green onion, minced
6 radishes, diced into small strips
1/2 bell pepper, minced
1/2 jalapeño, minced
1 handful of cilantro, minced (you could also use basil or thyme)
1 lime
1 Tbsp. olive oil
salt and pepper

Use a knife to slice the corn kernels off the cob into a medium-sized bowl. Add the next six ingredients and stir until combined. Add the juice of one lime, the oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir and refrigerate until ready to serve.

a public service announcement

Dear readers,

Zucchini season is quickly coming to a close. Before all those beautiful green and yellow squash are replaced by apples and turnips, I urge you to fry up some cheese-filled squash blossoms. There's literally only a few weeks before they disappear, so the time is now, people. Like a burger cooked on a backyard grill, or a margarita on a roof deck, or soft serve from the neighborhood ice cream truck, this is essential summer eating.

Serve them up solo with some cocktails, or use them as a garnish for a salad or cold soup. They're the farmer's market equivalent of Lay's.

Your friend,
Lisa


Ricotta-filled squash blossoms
This recipe might look time-consuming, but it's easy once you get the hang of it. If you're having people over, just use your guests as an assembly line. Have one person fill the blossoms, another person batter them, and someone else fry them. And then you can eat them all. Kidding! (Serves 4 to 6 people)


12 squash blossoms
1 cup ricotta cheese (you can also substitute a soft goat cheese)
2 eggs
1 Tbsp. lemon zest
2 Tbsp. finely chopped basil, plus 1 Tbsp. extra
1 cup olive oil
1 cup flour
salt and pepper

In a small bowl, combine ricotta, 1 egg, lemon zest, and basil. Stir to combine and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside in the refrigerator. Carefully open each squash blossom to make sure there are no bugs inside. Most blossoms are clean, but if yours are sandy or dirty, gently brush them off with a damp paper towel. Pour the ricotta filling into a resealable plastic bag and cut off one corner, to make a piping bag. Line up your blossoms and pipe the filling into each blossom, filling it halfway (below). Pinch the leaves shut to seal the filling inside.

When all of the blossoms are filled, beat an egg in a medium-sized bowl. Pour the flour onto a dinner plate. Dip each blossom it into the egg, shake off any excess, then roll in the the flour. Set each flour-coated blossom aside until all are done.

Pour the oil into a deep pot and heat on medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (a bead of water should dance when you flick it in the oil), fry the blossoms in small batches. Cook for about three minutes on each side, turning with a pair of forks. When the blossoms are golden brown, remove from the oil and place on a paper-towel lined plate. When all of the blossoms are fried, sprinkle with salt and basil leaves and serve immediately.

nibbles

Here's two simple snack ideas from last weekend's lunch. Not to get all Rachael Ray on you, but both of these recipes can be made in under 30 minutes. They're the perfect distraction when guests are on their way to your house. Why not make some snacks instead of running around fluffing up pillows or cracking open the wine that's actually meant for your friends?

Pineapple salsa
I'm usually not much for fruity salsas, but I saw some pineapple at the store that called my name and we had an unusual surplus of jalapeños at home, some cilantro, and...pineapple salsa is born. I have to say, it was pretty delicious. We ate the leftovers with grilled scallops, but it would also be good with fish or chicken.
(Serves 6 to 8 people)

1 peeled, cored pineapple, cut into small cubes (about 1/4 inch)
1 to 1/2 minced jalapeños
1/2 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4 inch cubes
handful of cilantro, chopped
juice of 1 1/2 limes
1 tsp. vegetable oil
pinch of salt

Combine first four ingredients in a medium-sized bowl and stir together. Add lime juice, oil, and salt to taste. Refrigerate until ready to eat and serve with tortilla chips.


Sweet and spicy peanuts
These peanuts aren't spicy in the "heat" sense of the word, they are tossed with Chinese five spice powder (a blend of cinnamon, star anise, ginger, cloves, and cassia buds), which gives them a bit of aromatic spice.
(Serves 4 to 6 people)

2 cups unroasted peanuts
3 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. Chinese five spice powder
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
pinch of salt

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine, all ingredients and toss until the peanuts are coated. Pour the nuts onto a baking sheet and bake for about 15 minutes, or until the nuts are golden. Let cool, then serve.

link-o-rama

Happy Monday, everyone. Here's a few links to tide you through the workday.

Last week, the Times had a cute story about people who throw dinner parties in public places, like on the Brooklyn Bridge. Made me think about places I'd like to have everyone over for dinner. Perhaps on the banks of the Gowanus? Eh, maybe not. [via the NYT]

I can't decide whether these all-natural servingware ideas are cute or overly fussy. Either way, they cut down on dirty dishes. [via The Kitchn]

Tasty-sounding (and beautiful) napa cabbage salad with buttermilk dressing. [via Smitten Kitchen]

And on the required unrelated note, heeeere's Cheesus. People are stupid. [via Serious Eats]

doing lunch

Last Saturday, Dan and I spent a day with our friend Juliette, who was in New York for work. Juliette owns the sweetest little bungalow in Lake Worth, Florida, complete with a fish pond and a front porch and all sorts of enviable things to apartment dwellers like us. Whenever we're in West Palm Beach, we have dinner with her and her boyfriend Nathan, and she usually has us over for a cup of tea or a glass of wine—a welcome escape from non-stop family time. It's all very relaxed and grown-up and makes us seriously consider moving back down South and buying a similarly cute house, at least for a split-second.

Naturally, we wanted to return the favor while she was in town. Her flight got in early Saturday morning, eliminating the chance for breakfast or brunch. And I had a bachelorette party that night, so dinner was out too. Which left...lunch. And I realized I had never made lunch for anyone before, aside from things in Tupperware eaten over your keyboard at work. Having someone over for lunch seems really quaint, doesn't it? Like something your grandmother would do.

So I pulled out my trusty pad of Post-Its, and tried to figure out a menu that wasn't too brunch-y, or heavy, or complicated. Lunch should be light and interesting, not too much of a production. And most important of all, everything had to be made without the oven. I couldn't bear the thought of Juliette sitting on our couch, sweat dripping down her face. So, light, cold, interesting. Here's what I came up with.

Lunch for Juliette
Pineapple salsa with tortilla chips
shrimp rolls
Bibb lettuce with tomatoes and blue cheese
Lemonade

I've made a ton of fish and shrimp dishes at home lately, but my summer cravings for seafood have still not been satisfied. So last week my friend Brooke and I had dinner at the venerable Pearl Oyster Bar. After a bowl of mussels I could certainly make better at home, an underwhelming lobster roll (that the staff tried to sneakily overcharge us for), a slice of blueberry pie that was just meh, and all-around nasty service, I left feeling quite disappointed. You'd think the experience would end my taste for seafood, but instead it left me jonesing for a decent lobster roll.

So apologies to Rebecca Charles, but I decided to re-make her much-touted lobster roll for our lunch, substituting shrimp for the lobster. The shrimp salad, served on buttered, toasted Pepperidge Farm hot dog buns (just like at Pearl's) was simply dressed with mayo, lemon, and celery. Although nothing compares to lobster, everyone said the shrimp was a fine stand-in and lent a slightly sweeter flavor.

And unlike going out, you never get bad service (or have to haggle over the check with an impertinent manager) when you're at home.

Shrimp rolls
The original recipe, from Rebecca Charles' book Lobster Rolls & Blueberry Pie serves two and calls for four 1 pound lobsters. The shrimp cooking technique is cribbed from Ina Garten's shrimp salad recipe, which also sounds delicious.
(Makes approximately 4 overstuffed sandwiches)

2 lbs. large shrimp, shell on
1/2 celery rib, finely chopped
1/4 cup Hellman's mayonnaise
1 1/2 lemons
Pinch of kosher salt and ground black pepper
4 teaspoons unsalted butter
4 Pepperidge Farm top-loading hot dog buns
Chopped chives for garnish

Bring 5 quarts of water, a generous pinch of salt, and 1 lemon, cut into quarters, to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the shrimp and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, uncovered, for only 3 minutes, or until the shrimp are barely cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon to a bowl of cool water. Bring the water back to a boil and repeat with the remaining shrimp. Let cool, then peel and de-vein the shrimp.

Chop the shrimp into 1/2-inch pieces. Combine shrimp, mayonnaise, the juice of 1/2 a lemon, celery, and salt and pepper. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

Melt butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Press open buns, and place in skillet, turning to coat both sides. Cook buns until golden brown on both sides.

Fill bun with lobster filling, and sprinkle with chopped chives, if desired.